Keep an eye out for them whenever you get a sweets craving. For a split second I questioned my decision to risk my life for some suckling pig, but then I spotted a group of giggling and tipsy twenty-somethings who seemed like they'd be on their way to the Indonesian equivalent of a greasy spoon at this time of night. On my first day in Seminyak, I took a cooking class where I was introduced to pandan, a grass-like plant used in many Southeast Asian desserts and responsible for kuih ketayap's neon-green hue. With every twist and turn down the narrow alleyways, the wafts of smoke and the smell of burning wood told me that I had to be on the right track. Babi guling's cult following is so strong, people have been known to travel to the island just to eat it. Your best tool for navigating warungs is your eyes. If I had wanted the best pieces of skin, I should have left even earlier.
Sierra. Age: 24.
I knew what I was missing—I spent much of my childhood lurking at the lechon table at Filipino birthday parties, slyly picking off and eating the crunchiest bits of skin.
Juliana. Age: 25.
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Though typically a Javanese specialty, this salty snack makes its way to Bali too; look for the warung near the Ubud Art Market. Babi guling's cult following is so strong, people have been known to travel to the island just to eat it. Keep an eye out for them whenever you get a sweets craving.